Creating Cosmetics: Derma Cosmetics - Global Cosmetics News

Posted by Global Cosmetics News | Nov 6, 2024 | Podcast |

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Siobhan Murphy, Publishing Director at Global Cosmetics News: [00:00:00] Hello and welcome to In Conversation With, the monthly podcast series brought to you by the team that produced the Global Cosmetics News Feed. This year’s theme is Creating Cosmetics, and this month’s topic is Dermacosmetics. I’m your host, Siobhan Murphy. Dermacosmetics are cosmetic products designed with advanced active ingredients to address specific skin care conditions.

But why has this term become a buzzword in 2024? And what sets dermacosmetics apart from standard skincare? To dive deeper into this topic and explore the distinctions, let me introduce you to this month’s panel. A warm welcome to Julia Durack, VP of Research and Product Development at Symbiome, the pioneering microbiome skincare brand from the United States, and Dr. Tiina Meder, CEO and Founder of Meder by Tiina Meder, the microbiome-friendly skincare brand from Europe. Welcome, everybody.

Siobhan Murphy: Julia, what are the environmental challenges and where are the opportunities for creating dermacosmetics at your brand, Symbiome?

Julia Durack: Thank you for having me on this podcast. I’m excited to be here. Look, this is an interesting question because, in my opinion, the biggest challenge consumers face today is misinformation. And misinformation, in particular, because there are no leading bodies truly educating consumers in this space. Dermacosmetics, as you rightly pointed out, is just a buzzword, as is microbiome in skincare. I’m going to leave it there and see if Tiina has a different opinion.

Siobhan Murphy: And Tiina, what are the regulatory challenges for your brand?

Dr. Tiina Meder: Hello, and thank you very much for inviting me. I’m really pleased to participate in the Global Cosmetic News podcast. I absolutely agree with Julia. Misinformation is one of the biggest challenges we face. It’s not just misinformation, but also the lack of education. We’ve been in the market for 15 years, but we’re still trying to find the right voice to speak to customers, skin practitioners, and even dermatologists. Recently, we discussed with the team how to explain the mechanism of action of growth factors without mentioning cytokines and without oversimplifying. It’s challenging because the public doesn’t really understand the terminology. We need to find ways to educate consumers properly on how dermocosmetics interact with the skin.

Julia Durack: The voice should ideally come from larger companies, but it’s really the smaller startups that are leading this space. Education is so important, but I’m concerned that consumers aren’t fully ready to meet us where we are, in terms of understanding and welcoming the information. It’s difficult to communicate complex mechanisms of action for active skincare ingredients.

Dr. Tiina Meder: I agree, but we need to meet each other halfway in this scientific “forest.” During the COVID period, everyone suddenly became an immunologist, and there was a greater public understanding of complex scientific topics. We need a similar shift in skincare—creating a shared vocabulary and understanding. Dermocosmetics can’t just be about beautiful packaging; the products need to communicate effectively.

Julia Durack: Every brand wants to stand out, at least on paper, but they often don’t give enough budget to R&D. In derma cosmetics, a lot of the budget goes to marketing instead of investing in research. A huge challenge I see as a clinical scientist is the lack of molecular testing available to dermatologists today. The technology exists, but it’s not widely embraced.

Siobhan Murphy: And are dermatologists part of the problem, Tiina?

Dr. Tiina Meder: Yes, I agree with Julia that cost is a major issue. We resolve this by working with an OEM laboratory in Switzerland, which helps alleviate some of the R&D costs. However, I feel there’s a lack of open-minded dermatologists in the industry. Many still follow traditional guidelines that were created decades ago, even though scientific evidence has evolved. There’s a need for dermatologists with a modern approach to engage in the skincare industry.

Julia Durack: Reaching dermatologists and having conversations about this rapidly changing space is essential. We’re developing new ingredients and powerful bioactives, but it’s challenging to convey this to dermatologists who may not be familiar with new testing methods, like microbiome testing, or how to explain the results.

Dr. Tiina Meder: It feels like a mission impossible, but we’re still pushing forward.

Julia Durack: At Symbiome, we’re committed to being eco-friendly, sourcing sustainable ingredients, and avoiding plastic wherever possible. The impact of microplastics on health is something we’re only beginning to understand.

Siobhan Murphy: What are the consumer challenges at Meder, Tiina?

Dr. Tiina Meder: We’re careful with our packaging choices, opting for fully recyclable materials. We also use airless vacuum pumps to keep our products intact and minimize waste. But there’s still so much we don’t know about our environmental impact, and I believe overconsumption in skincare is a big problem. The industry pushes people to use excessive products, which isn’t sustainable.

Julia Durack: Overconsumption is indeed a significant issue. Marketing promotes multi-step routines, but we focus on using potent ingredients to minimize both product use and the number of products needed. A scientifically rigorous formulation can achieve results without a 10-step routine.

Siobhan Murphy: So, who should regulate the overproduction of products? Should it be the industry or the government?

Julia Durack: Personally, I don’t think the government needs to step in. Education is key. Consumers are becoming more conscious of sustainability and health. Platforms like TikTok could help us reach consumers with educational content.

Dr. Tiina Meder: I agree. More efforts in education would be beneficial. If consumers are better informed, they can make smarter, sustainable choices without needing government intervention.

Siobhan Murphy: Julia, can you describe the future of the dermacosmetics category in three words?

Julia Durack: [Response]

Siobhan Murphy: And Tiina, your three words?

Dr. Tiina Meder: I would say the future of dermocosmetics is about interconnectedness, collaboration, and education. It may sound like a mission impossible, but it’s essential for public health.

Siobhan Murphy: With that, I would like to thank my guests, Julia and Tiina, for joining me today and thank you, our listeners, for tuning in.

In recent years, “derma cosmetics” has become a buzzword in the beauty industry, and 2024 has seen this term reach new heights. But what exactly are derma cosmetics, and what sets them apart from traditional skincare?

Derma cosmetics are specially formulated skincare products that utilize advanced active ingredients to target and treat specific skin concerns. These products are designed to bridge the gap between medical skincare and everyday beauty routines, offering consumers targeted solutions for complex skin conditions.

Join host Siobhan Murphy, Publishing Director at Global Cosmetics News, as she explores the world of derma cosmetics with two industry experts.

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