How to care for oily skin, according to a dermatologist

By Ana Morales

Oily or combination/oily skin, can be tricky to care for especially since it can get dehydrated quickly. It's a fairly common misconception that oily skin doesn't need hydration and/or less of it as it can create even more sebum.

Additionally, having oily skin does not mean having acne-prone skin contrary to popular belief, however, it's obviously more prone to the appearance of pimples and comedones (according to data from Filorga one out of two women between 20 and 40 years of age has oily or acne-prone skin). For all these reasons, it is necessary to draw up a clear and concise roadmap to learn how to take care of this skin prototype. We asked Dr. Elena Martinez, dermatologist at the Pilar de Frutos Clinic to settle it once and for all.

Oily skin is characterized by having dilated pores and shine all over the face (not only in the T-zone, since in that case we would be talking about a combination skin). They may have a tendency to experience blackheads and pimples—the incidence of acne will increase by 60% in the next 10 years—and an uneven texture.

Cleansing is the basis of care for any skin type, but in the case of oily skin it is necessary to do it with suitable products. "Cleansers designed for oily skin should be used. Cleansers intended for oily, combination or acne-prone skin should be used.or combination or acne-prone skin should be used. This type of product contains sebum regulators that will help reduce or at least regulate oil production. In addition, they usually include compounds with a more soothing action to prevent further dryness or irritation when the skin has more inflammatory acne lesions," explains Dr. Martínez. That is why it is very common for this type of cleansers to contain in their composition salicylic acid as it helps to clean the pores in depth.

It is not necessary, although it is most common for this type of product for oily skin to be rinsed with water. However, it is essential, as the expert explains, to achieve deep cleansing without extreme drying, as this could lead to compensatory hyperseborrhea (the well-known rebound effect of oily skin that is washed with astringent bars of soap). It is recommended to finish cleansing with a toner, better if it contains salicylic acid when the pores are dirtier.

Although using cleansing milk could be an option, the expert affirms that this product "is more for drier skins". Regarding toner, she insists that its purpose is to regulate the pH of this type of skin and to deeply cleanse the pores, "but it is not a product intended for general cleansing. A toner will never replace a cleansing product, such as a gel or micellar water," she explains.

The key is that they must be oil free and non-comedogenic. "These products will be oil/lipid free, meaning they are non-greasy." The texture of the cosmetics is also important. They should be fluid: emulsions, serums, gels, cremi-gel or light creams, as they do not contribute fat.

In general, it is best to use light creams or gel textures. Dr. Martínez points out that moisturizing serums with hyaluronic acid can even be used instead of cream. Another alternative are creams with glycolic acid, as they are a good alternative to minimize acne marks.

In the morning it is advisable to use a sebum-regulating serum and a light water-based moisturizer and at night some active ingredients designed to improve acne and/or oil production: retinol, glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

The fear of adding excess oil leads many people not to use moisturizers. This is a mistake because it leads to dehydration. The key, as Dr Martínez points out, is to use products that provide water without adding oil. "In other words, products that provide the skin with the water it lacks and help it not to lose the water it produces itself. The star product here is hyaluronic acid" she recommends.

In principle, if you use light textures for oily skin, you can use several products at the same time as they should not clog the pore. However, if you want to use an ointment or a more repairing balm, the expert recommends applying it last and at night.

Exfoliation should not be overdone, but it will be more frequent on oily skin. The expert advises nightly exfoliation 1 or 2 nights a week if you have active inflammatory acne (always with products prescribed by dermatologists) and 3-4 nights a week for oily skin without acne. Sulfur masks (a sebum-regulating active ingredient) can also be used one day a week. Normally, the most indicated products for exfoliation and peeling usually contain salicylic acid for skins with marked pores and glycolic acid when there are blemishes or acne marks.

The following can be performed cleansing with manual extraction or diamond tip—it is essential to put yourself in good hands as these procedures require experience and expertise to avoid damaging the skin. Dr Martinez advises that they should be done every 15 days if there is a high comedogenic component. Otherwise, every 3 months is sufficient. Good results are also obtained with dermalinfusion treatments in cases of acne (a combination of dermabrasion, extraction and infusion of serums).

Dr Martinez speaks of less marked ageing. "But this does not mean that oily skins do not age. Wrinkles are less evident, they are later and less marked thanks to the lipids/fats that we naturally have in this type of skin and that contribute to it being more elastic. But they may have a greater tendency to sagging".

By Ana Morales

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This story first appeared on vogue.es

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